The Battle of the Hams You Didn’t Know
Since ancient times, humans have developed methods to preserve meat, ensuring sustenance through harsh seasons and long journeys. Curing meat, primarily through salting and drying, was a crucial innovation across various cultures. The Greeks and Romans perfected these techniques, creating early versions of what we now know as prosciutto in Italy and serrano in Spain. This preservation method was not just about sustenance; it evolved into a celebrated culinary art, rich in tradition and regional variations.
In Europe, particularly in countries like Italy and Spain, cured meats became an integral part of the gastronomic culture. Prosciutto, made from the hind leg of a pig, is salted and left to dry for months, sometimes even years. The process enhances the meat’s flavor, developing a delicate, nutty taste that is cherished worldwide. Similarly, Spanish serrano ham, cured in the mountainous regions, offers a distinct flavor profile, celebrated for its slightly sweet and earthy taste. These hams are often enjoyed thinly sliced, paired with cheese and wine, reflecting a deep-rooted appreciation for fine food and tradition.
Image via Ham4Bacon/X
The increasing popularity of Iberico ham in China has not gone unnoticed. Samuel Rodriguez of the Spanish Consulate elaborates on this trend, highlighting key milestones and factors that have fueled its growth.
“The popularity of Iberico pork ham in China began to increase noticeably in the early 2010s and has consolidated in recent years,” Rodriguez tells us. “The initial boost came from the reduction of trade and health barriers, which made it easier for Iberico ham to enter the Chinese market. This was coupled with increased trade agreements between China and Spain, facilitating the import of gourmet products, including Iberico ham.”
Rodriguez notes that from 2013 to 2015, promotional events and trade fairs in China played a crucial role. “Spanish companies actively participated in food exhibitions and international fairs in China to publicize Iberico ham. Collaboration agreements with local distributors and high-end supermarket chains significantly increased the availability and visibility of Iberico ham in the country.”
“From 2015 onwards, the rise of e-commerce platforms such as Tmall, JD.com, and Alibaba allowed Iberico ham to reach a wider audience. Online sales became a crucial channel for distributing gourmet products. The growing number of Chinese tourists visiting Spain and trying Iberico ham also contributed to the increased demand back home.”
Marketing strategies tailored to the Chinese market were another pivotal factor. “Targeted marketing campaigns using Chinese social networks like WeChat and Weibo helped raise awareness and demand for Iberico ham. Influencers and chefs began promoting Iberico ham on their platforms, educating consumers about its unique characteristics and benefits,” Rodriguez explains.
“In recent years, the expansion of the middle class in China and its growing interest in luxury and gourmet products have continued to drive demand for Iberico ham. Certifications and labels guaranteeing the authenticity and quality of Iberico ham have also increased Chinese consumers’ confidence in the product,” he concludes.
Image via Iber Bellota
The rise of Iberico ham in China exemplifies the convergence of tradition and modernity, as centuries-old European curing techniques meet the burgeoning appetite of a new market.
As we delve deeper into the intricacies of the cured ham market in China, we spoke with Andy Xie, the founder of 伊风橡子 (Yifeng Xiangzi), a leading purveyor of Iberico ham in China. His insights provide a detailed understanding of the growing popularity and appreciation for this Spanish delicacy among Chinese consumers.
Xie introduces himself and his company with pride. “伊风橡子 (Yifeng Xiangzi) was established in 2018, and our brand name translates to ‘Iberian Tradition of Dry Curing’ and ‘Acorn,’ the favorite food of 100% Iberico pigs. Our brand is headquartered in Badajoz, Spain, and this year marks our sixth year of officially importing Spanish Iberico products into the Chinese market.”
“Around 2015 and 2016, there was a noticeable shift,” Xie recalls when asked about the evolving perceptions among Chinese consumers. “It was driven by an increased understanding of Mediterranean gourmet foods among China’s middle and high-income consumers. The Spanish government, particularly the Iberico Pork Industry Association (ASICI), played an active role in this transformation through extensive promotional activities across various sectors. Over the past three years, we have witnessed a 150% increase in sales to the Chinese market.”
“The production of Iberico ham is a meticulous and traditional process that involves the unique breeding and post processing techniques of Iberico pigs,” Xie explains, detailing the steps involved.
“Iberico pigs primarily live on the Iberian Peninsula and are renowned for their unique genetic traits. They are typically free-range in oak forests, where 100% purebred black pigs consume a diet rich in acorns and herbs. This diet not only enhances the flavor of the meat but also increases its nutritional value, making it rich in unsaturated fatty acids, omega-3, proteins, vitamins, and essential minerals.”
“Iberico pigs are slaughtered once they reach the appropriate weight and maturity. Post-slaughter, the pig legs are trimmed to remove excess fat and meat.”
“The legs are uniformly covered in salt for preservation and flavor enhancement. The salting period depends on the size of the leg and the desired final flavor, typically about one day per kilogram. After salting, the legs are washed to remove excess salt and then placed in specific drying rooms for stabilization for 3-4 months, followed by long-term natural drying.”
“Lastly, the dried legs are then moved to ham cellars for a long aging process, which can last two to three years or even longer, allowing the legs to develop their enchanting aroma and flavor.”
Image via Iber Bellota
Traditionally, Iberico pigs are prized in Europe and elsewhere in large part due to their perceived ‘lovely’ quality of life. They lead a seemingly elegant and simple lifestyle, frolicking in the pastures and orchards of southwestern Spain with all the acorns a hog can inhale. However, it would be foolish to presume that among the millions of pigs that fall under the Iberico denomination, they all receive the same royal treatment. The class struggle affects even the luckiest of pigs. The tiers of quality are as follows:
Black Label: The highest grade, using 100% purebred Iberico pigs that primarily eat acorns and are free-range in oak forests with at least 10,000 square meters per pig.
Red Label: Pigs with 50%-75% Iberico lineage, also primarily acorn-fed and free-range.
Green Label: Over 50% Iberico lineage, free-range in fields, and fed with grass and grains, with at least 100 square meters per pig.
White Label: 50% Iberico lineage, typically farm-raised and grain-fed.
Image via @SN365Show/X
While the popularity of Spanish pork has skyrocketed, there are some domestic products which are quality contendors. China’s rich tradition of cured hams is epitomized by a handful of major varieties: Jinhua, Rugao, Panxian and Xuanwei hams.
Each of these hams has its unique characteristics, production methods, and cultural significance, contributing to their esteemed positions in Chinese cuisine.
Jinhua Ham (金华火腿)
Origin: Jinhua, Zhejiang Province
Jinhua ham is renowned for its deep red color, firm texture, and rich, savory flavor. The ham undergoes a lengthy curing process that involves salting, drying, and aging in a humid environment, which enhances its distinct taste and aroma. The production of Jinhua ham begins with the selection of high-quality pigs, which are salted for about 35 days. After salting, the hams are washed and left to dry in the shade for several months.
The aging process can last from six months to a year, during which the ham develops its characteristic flavor. Jinhua ham is often used in Chinese cooking to enhance the flavor of soups, stews, and braised dishes. It can also be sliced thinly and served as an appetizer.
While detailed market share data is not readily available, it is clear that Jinhua ham, with its historical prestige and widespread use, dominates the Chinese cured ham market.
Rugao Ham (如皋火腿)
Origin: Rugao, Jiangsu Province
Rugao ham is distinguished by its golden-yellow exterior and rose-red interior. It has a delicate texture and a slightly sweet, savory flavor that is highly appreciated in Chinese cuisine. The production of Rugao ham involves a meticulous curing process that includes salting, drying, and aging. The hams are salted for about 45 days and then left to dry in a controlled environment.
The aging process can last up to a year, allowing the ham to develop its rich flavor and tender texture. Rugao ham is commonly used in Chinese cooking, particularly in soups and stews, where it imparts a rich, savory flavor. It can also be thinly sliced and served as a delicacy.
Xuanwei Ham (宣威火腿)
Origin: Xuanwei, Yunnan Province
Xuanwei ham is celebrated for its fine texture, rich flavor, and delicate aroma. The ham is typically reddish brown and has a smooth, velvety texture. The production of Xuanwei ham involves a traditional curing process that includes salting, air-drying, and aging. The hams are salted for about 40 days, then air-dried in a cool, dry environment.
The aging process can take up to three years, allowing the ham to develop its unique flavor profile. Xuanwei ham is often used in Chinese cuisine as a flavoring ingredient in soups and stir-fries.
Panxian Ham (盘县火腿)
Origin: Panxian, Guizhou Province
Panxian ham is known for its tender texture and slightly sweet, rich flavor.
The ham has a distinctive reddish brown color and is prized for its smooth, even texture. The production of Panxian ham starts with local pigs, which are salted and cured using traditional methods. The hams are salted for about 30 days, then air-dried and aged for a minimum of one year.
The aging process enhances the ham’s flavor and texture, making it suitable for raw consumption if aged for three years or more.
Panxian ham is used similarly to Jinhua and Xuanwei hams, adding depth of flavor to various dishes. It is also enjoyed raw, especially when aged for several years.
Panxian ham has a growing market share, particularly in Guizhou and neighboring regions. Its unique flavor and high quality have contributed to its increasing popularity.
Image via Biaoge
Xuanwei ham is one of China’s four most famous hams, with a history dating back nearly 300 years to the Qing Dynasty. It all starts with the hind leg of a locally-raised Wujin pig, ideally weighing 90-100 kg with a perfect balance of fat and lean meat. These legs are then cured with natural salt and left to air-dry and ferment for months, followed by one to three years of aging.
This meticulous process results in Xuanwei ham’s distinctive rose-red color, tender texture, rich aroma, and perfectly balanced saltiness. It’s no wonder it’s considered a treasure among Chinese delicacies, even winning a gold medal at the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition.
But tradition doesn’t have to mean staying stuck in the past. In today’s digital age, a young man known as ‘Biaoge’ is using social media to introduce this age-old delicacy to a new generation. He’s not a celebrity chef, but his passion for his hometown’s culinary heritage shines through in every video he posts, sharing the story of Xuanwei ham with the world.
Image via Biaoge
Biaoge, meaning ‘Brother Biao,’ is a common nickname in China, reflecting his down-to-earth personality. Born into a family of Xuanwei ham makers, he’s been immersed in this ancestral craft since childhood. From curious kid to a passionate entrepreneur, Biaoge’s journey has been full of challenges and triumphs.
Taking over the family business in the age of the internet wasn’t easy. How could he make this traditional food relevant to a younger audience? His solution: embrace the power of new media. Biaoge began posting videos on Bilibili, a popular Chinese video-sharing platform, documenting every step of the ham-making process. From selecting the perfect pig leg to the meticulous curing and air-drying, he held nothing back.
His videos were simple, authentic, and completely lacking in flashy editing or over-the-top personalities. And that’s exactly what drew people in. Viewers were captivated by Biaoge’s genuine passion and dedication to his craft. They were also fascinated by the intricate process of creating Xuanwei ham, from the initial trimming and salting to the suspenseful moment when a ham is finally cut open, revealing its hidden treasures.
Image via Biaoge
Biaoge’s equipment has evolved — from steel wool and angle grinders to high-pressure water guns — but his connection with his audience has remained constant. Thousands tune in daily to watch him burning off the mold on the surface of the ham with a blowtorch, then expertly slicing through ham after ham, never knowing what the next cut might reveal: Will it be a perfect ruby-red cross-section? A flawed portion that needs trimming? Or a dreaded moldy spot? This element of surprise keeps viewers on the edge of their seats.
In just half a year, Biaoge went from an unknown ham enthusiast to the ‘Xuanwei Ham Ambassador,’ amassing over 600,000 followers. His videos have even spawned memes, like the ‘Dubai Knife Technique,’ referring to the thick layer of oxidized fat that needs to be trimmed off before eating. “When I encounter a fine ham, I’ll cut a bit more carefully,” Biaoge jokes, “but I hope friends understand that medical bills are more expensive than the meat we cut off.”
Image via Biaoge
Despite his online fame, Biaoge remains grounded. “To be honest, I know many fans got to know me through my videos of washing and cutting ham, finding it very stress relieving,” he admits. “But I also know that as a merchant of agricultural products doing self-media, I can’t go down the KOL route. Instead, I need to win the market with high-quality products.”
He’s grateful for the platform the internet has given him, allowing him to share his passion for Xuanwei ham with the world. “Many friends have come to know Xuanwei ham because of me, and through repeated purchases and cooking attempts, they’ve come to appreciate Xuanwei ham and recommend it to others,” he says. “This has inadvertently helped me promote the culture of Xuanwei ham, which makes me very happy.”
“I personally feel very proud of Xuanwei ham,” Biaoge shares. “Although it doesn’t have the strict industrial control of Spanish ham, it has a long history and its production process is also very elaborate and complex.”
He explains that achieving the perfect Xuanwei ham requires meticulous attention to detail at every stage. It starts with selecting the right pig, ideally, a locally-raised Wujin weighing between 90 and 100 kilograms with the perfect fat-to-lean ratio. The fresh leg is then carefully trimmed into an oval shape, removing excess fat and fascia.
Next comes the crucial curing stage. Xuanwei ham utilizes a dry-curing method involving three separate salt rubs, each with a specific salt concentration, lasting a total of 17 to 18 days. The cured legs are then stacked for a period, separated by bamboo slats, before being hung to air-dry and ferment. Throughout the drying process, the hams are carefully positioned to ensure even air circulation, allowing them to mature slowly.
After a year of curing and fermentation, the magic happens.
Nourished by the unique climate of Xuanwei, the humble pig leg transforms into a culinary masterpiece: a rose-colored, tender, salty, and aromatic delicacy that melts in your mouth.
Image via Biaoge
Biaoge’s dedication to quality is evident in his hands-on approach. He personally processes and cuts every ham, while his wife handles the finetuning and packaging. Even with a surge in orders, he refuses to compromise on quality, relying only on himself and a small team to fulfill orders.
“Xuanwei ham generally has very thick fat,” Biaoge explains, “because our pig raising cycle is quite long, usually about a year to a year and a half.” Slice open a high-quality Xuanwei ham, and you’ll be greeted by tender, bright red meat with a hint of rose.
Take a bite, and the salty aroma hits you first, followed by a lingering sweetness, like the fresh air of the Yunnan plateau.
While Iberico boasts a richer, nuttier flavor and Parma is known for its smooth texture and sweet-salty taste, Xuanwei ham offers a unique flavor profile all its own.
One question that often arises is whether you can eat Xuanwei ham raw, as is common with Western hams.
“The long fermentation process of our Xuanwei ham is actually equivalent to a maturing process, so as long as the storage conditions are good, our ham can also be eaten raw, and the taste is no less than Spanish ham,” Biaoge shares. However, he cautions that the humid climate of Yunnan can lead to mold growth in improperly stored hams. Therefore, he recommends cooking Xuanwei ham for the best and safest experience.
Whether stir-fried, stewed, or used as a flavoring agent in soups and mooncakes, Xuanwei ham adds a unique depth of flavor to any dish. Biaoge recommends trying his personal favorite: stir-fried green peppers with ham. The simple yet flavorful dish highlights the ham’s natural savoriness and pairs perfectly with the slight bitterness of the green peppers.
“We have a saying that high-end ingredients often only need the simplest cooking,” he says. “This dish is very simple to make, yet it’s a classic recipe recognized by every person from Xuanwei, allowing you to easily taste the flavor of China.”
He also encourages culinary experimentation. “I also encourage everyone to innovate and eat ham in different styles, or use Western cooking techniques to prepare Xuanwei ham. I believe it won’t disappoint you.”
Beyond its culinary appeal, Xuanwei ham holds a special place in Chinese culture. “In Xuanwei, a ham is a must have when visiting relatives and friends,” Biaoge explains. “Ham has a very good meaning in China, implying that all things will develop in a very good direction. So ham can also be given as a gift.”
Biaoge’s story is just one example of how traditional Chinese cuisine is finding new life in the modern world. Xuanwei ham, with its rich history and unique flavor, is capturing the attention of food enthusiasts both in China and beyond. Biaoge’s success demonstrates the power of combining heritage with innovation, proving that ancient traditions can thrive in the digital age.
A representative from the Guizhou Latest Agricultural and Sideline Products Management Department shared insights on Panxian ham, emphasizing its safety and culinary appeal.
“Our Panxian ham, aged for three years, is safe to eat raw and offers a superior taste,” they explained. “We use local pork and traditional methods, ensuring quality and safety. The long aging process enhances the ham’s flavor, making it a delicacy that can be enjoyed in its purest form.”
In a survey of ham sellers across different regions, the responses varied significantly regarding the consumption of raw ham. Among Xuanwei ham sellers, most advised against eating it raw, citing safety concerns. However, one enthusiastic seller highlighted its delicious taste when consumed raw. In contrast, sellers of Rugao and Jinhua hams unanimously recommended cooking the ham before consumption. Notably, all Panxian ham sellers affirmed that their product is safe to eat raw after three years of aging, underscoring the unique qualities and rigorous standards of Panxian ham production.
Pork, unlike some other meats, carries a higher risk of harboring harmful pathogens such as Trichinella spiralis, Salmonella, and E. coli. These parasites and bacteria can cause severe illnesses if the meat is consumed raw or undercooked. Proper handling and thorough cooking of pork are essential to eliminate these health risks and ensure food safety.
In China, pork is a staple protein, with the country leading the world in pork consumption. According to data from the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), China’s pork consumption is significantly higher than that of any other country, reflecting its central role in Chinese cuisine. This high consumption rate underscores the importance of stringent safety measures in pork production and preparation.
Given the potential health risks, many Chinese cured hams are recommended to be cooked before consumption. The curing process alone, while reducing some pathogens, may not completely eliminate the risks associated with raw pork. Therefore, it is advisable to follow safety guidelines and cook pork thoroughly to ensure it is safe to eat.
The market for cured hams in China shows considerable growth potential, driven by increasing consumer interest in both traditional Chinese hams and premium foreign varieties like Iberico.
The domestic ham market is expanding as Chinese consumers become more discerning and seek high quality, artisanal products. The growing appreciation for traditional Chinese hams such as Jinhua, Xuanwei, Panxian, and Rugao reflects a broader trend towards valuing culinary heritage and authentic flavors. Additionally, the rise of e-commerce and social media platforms has made it easier for consumers to access and purchase these products, further boosting market growth.
The import market for premium foreign hams, particularly Iberico ham from Spain, is also on the rise. As Chinese consumers’ purchasing power increases, so does their interest in luxury and gourmet foods. Trade agreements, promotional events, and the growing popularity of Western culinary practices have facilitated the entry of high-quality foreign hams into the Chinese market. This trend is expected to continue, driven by ongoing consumer demand. Chinese hams are gaining recognition on the international stage, with an increasing number of consumers abroad showing interest in these unique products. The export market for Chinese hams, particularly those with a long history and distinctive flavors like Xuanwei and Jinhua, is poised for growth. Efforts to ensure quality control and secure certifications for export can help Chinese producers tap into new markets and expand their global footprint.
In conclusion, the world of cured hams is rich with tradition, flavor, and cultural significance. From the meticulous production processes of Iberico and Chinese hams to the evolving consumer preferences in China, the market for cured meats is dynamic and full of potential. As both domestic and international markets continue to grow, the appreciation for these culinary treasures is set to flourish, bridging cultures and delighting palates around the world.
Scan the QR code to follow Biaoge on Douyin.
Image via Biaoge
[Cover image via @LiveinGuizhou/X]
