Charred Cucumber and Shiso Quick Pickles

Photos by Rick Poon

Charring cucumbers may seem like an odd move, but it is a quick way to make the familiar interesting again.

They retain their refreshing quality—with additional brightness from the vinegar—but they become a shade darker, more savory in flavor, and almost meaty in texture.

• 1 to 1¼ lb. Persian cucumbers (approximately 5 small)
  

• 1 to 2 tbsp. neutral vegetable oil (such as cold-pressed rice bran oil or grapeseed oil)
  

• Fine sea salt
  

• 1 tbsp. vinegar (rice wine, white wine, champagne, or red wine)
  

• ½ c. (loosely packed) shiso sprouts, or 6–8 shiso leaves cut into 1-in. squares
  

Instructions:

1. Halve the cucumbers lengthwise and then again, crosswise. Set a 12- or 14-inch heavy-bottomed skillet, preferably cast iron, over high heat and add the oil. Swirl the oil around the pan until no bald spots remain. Place the cucumbers in the skillet cut side down and char 4 to 5 minutes (you may have to do this in batches so as to not overcrowd your skillet; add more oil between batches if the skillet seems dry). Transfer the cucumbers to a rimmed plate or baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and vinegar. Let cool to room temperature. Taste, and add more salt, if needed. Toss gently and then shower on shiso sprouts or shiso leaves. Stack in small serving bowls.

Recipes from The Modern Larder by Michelle McKenzie. Roost Books, an imprint of Shambhala Publications, Inc., 2021. Recipe photographs © Rick Poon.