Hermès Spring 2025 Menswear

“Lightness, peace, softness—that’s the inspiration, what we wish for.” Véronique Nichanian took us to the seaside at Hermès. Her models scuffed along in strappy leather sandals and wide-leg pants cropped north of the ankles, with their biceps bared by zip-front sleeveless leather jackets and flexing with the weight of a “beach” bag, though of course the Haut à Courroies is not made from woven straw or plastic.

That was the heart of this exercise—elevating beach clothes, which are typically made in the humblest of fabrics, with Hermès-level materials and somehow not relinquishing their relaxed, easygoing spirit in the process. That Nichanian did so elegantly is a testament to her skills with leather, which looked as supple as silk on a button-down and matching neckerchief in pale lavender (one of many soft, pretty colors), and also to her sensibilities. The way shirts were buttoned only up to the midriff, the manner in which the necklines of the tank tops worn underneath them were scooped just so, displaying the barest flashes of chest, and even the tender reveal of the ankles under those high-water pants—they are all details that showcase Nichanian’s feel for languor.

As befits her intentions, there wasn’t much in the way of traditional suits; instead Nichanian gave tailored jackets a playful spin with a naive floral print, almost like a doodle, or manipulated lapels so the blazers had a less formal vibe. The sheer jacket at the end looked like a callback to the sexy collection she showed a year ago that fashion people couldn’t stop talking about. A few looks before that she conjured something similar with a voile shirt which had unfinished side seams, so that the back panel caught the breeze as the model wound around the Palais d’Iena.

Keeping with the beachy theme, a few of the models were “tattooed” with a swirling harness motif lifted from a tank top, a shorts and camp shirt set, and a button-down worn entirely unbuttoned with softly pleated pants. A bit of fun. For the Hermès man who takes dressing well seriously there were plenty more of those roomy blouson shapes to hook him.

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