They say a trip to Paris is life changing, and Kim Shui’s most recent stint there this summer at the height of Men’s Fashion Week may have been the lucky one that inspired her spring 2025 collection. It was perhaps there where the designer became more immersed in menswear because, at tonight’s show, she subtly debuted the brand’s first-ever menswear pieces, worn by models like Jake Fleming.
It wasn’t just the men Shui was inspired by in Paris, but also Matthew Barney’s “SECONDARY” exhibition at the Fondation Cartier. There, she saw his terracotta sculptures and recalled the ancient Japanese art practice of Kintsugi. “The collection started with the idea of Kintsugi, the philosophy of broken pottery that was repaired with gold resin, coming back stronger,” the designer explained. “It’s more resilient, and I like the idea of it being this unity, that something comes out more beautiful than before.” This evening, Shui did a little bit of Kintsugi of her own, taking bits and pieces from her past collections. The Ming-era florals that first got her brand on the map, the fierce Y2K touch from her fall 2023 show, and the whimsical dreaminess of spring 2024 all came together. Corsets were made with patent leather at the waist for that extra cinched look, while romantic straps grazed the shoulders. Shui’s signature short shorts stayed micro in the back but were given a modest ’60s touch in the front with higher waists and romantic ruffle detailing.
But back to the menswear. There was no announcement of the debut of menswear in the show notes or in the preview, but judging by the slew of men’s magazine editors invited to the show this evening, one should have had an inkling of what will come later. Shui herself is a beloved icon (check out her Instagram; most of downtown’s cool kids were in attendance on her birthday), always wearing her pieces no matter the occasion, and you’ll find her circle repping the brand as well. Now, as part of this savvy business move, Shui is opening up her world even more so that everyone can join the party.
