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Sandra Weil Mexico Spring 2024

The Peruvian designer Sandra Weil is an artist in spirit and a kind of painter by trade. The mix of natural elements is what moves her; her fall collection was titled Biolight, and was inspired by the concept of bioluminescence. “The starting point [of this collection] is the management of light and color,” she explained. “That is why transparencies become so important, why there are these embroideries layered on top of one another… embroidered sequins underneath organza.”

All of Weil’s classics were present here. Evening dresses, tailored suits, and bustiers (her signature piece) were enriched by eccentric, colorful, abstract prints, while elsewhere, fluid and ethereal fabrics were shown in solid earth tones. Weil always keeps one foot on Earth, and the other in a nebula. She is a bohemian, but also a businesswoman, and her clothes showcase the tension between creativity and the establishment. It’s a quality that allows her brand to be “chameleonic,” as she describes it herself, offering women garments for all aspects of their lives. This same dichotomy was present in the two shoe collaborations she did this season; one with Birkenstock, and another with Regina Romero, famous for her very feminine, very high-heeled, party shoes. Weil has an eclecticism that is all her own.

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