In a historical first, Copenhagen Fashion Week took its show on the road, inviting a small coterie of editors to Aalborg, a village founded by the Vikings, and now Denmark’s fourth most populous city. It’s there, in the Alvar Aalto and Jean-Jacques Baruël-designed Kunsten Museum of Modern Art, that Stine Goya guest-curated “If You See What I See”—an exhibition drawn from the 4,000 objects in the museum’s collections—and where she staged her fall 2025 show. The collection was one of the strongest the designer has presented of late. Recently Goya has seemed to be chasing trends and success, and overthinking things; now she let things just be. The tight edit revealed a sure vision.
Opening the proceedings was a floral print suit with lingerie hook-and-eye closures that met along the curved front seams, which had been opened to allow a bit of pink ruffle to froth forth. An elegant watercolor of bright flowers on a black ground was used on pieces with easy silhouettes, like a dress with a simple T-shirt silhouette, which kept things from getting saccharine. Her signature embellished puffer was cut close to the body and had a pretty peplum. Extending the slightly sporty theme were dressy tanks used as overlayers.
A number of models wore stockings, or MAC body paint, with the same pattern as their apparel; the idea was to blur the lines between clothing and the body. It was this aspect of the collection that was most clearly in dialogue with the exhibition, which was organized around the idea of separation.
“Separation, to me, is a recurring theme in my life, as a mother, a daughter, and a wife. The discomfort of separation creates a paradox, as it presupposes a connection and togetherness—something good and comforting. Yet, I always become emotional when something good comes to an end,” the designer wrote in a statement. In her opening remarks, and in a video made for the art show, Goya revealed that she lost four members of her family suddenly at a young age, and that she blocked her emotions; here, they seem to have finally found an outlet. Yet, as she noted, the theme is universal and topical. We can be separated from our homes, from each other, from reality… nature can be a connector, as can art, and fashion.
Seeing this show far from Copenhagen was a reminder that fashion needs to speak to people in places big and small, near and far. Seeing this show at Kunsten, was a reminder that fashion isn’t only about looking good, but at its best is in dialogue with art, architecture, and contemporary modes of living. The response to the exhibition has been so positive it has been extended for many months, which is a testament not only to Goya’s popularity, but also her sense of empathy.
